A fake Dior clutch fails on four points: the cannage grid, the hardware weight, the interior stamp, and the paperwork. Check those four in that order. Most copies pass one or two and fail the rest.

Start with the model name

Dior made several clutches. The Saddle clutch has a curved flap and a D stirrup. The Lady Dior pouch carries the cannage quilt. The 30 Montaigne clutch uses a CD buckle on the front. A listing that says "Dior clutch" with no model name is a listing from a seller who does not have the bag. Ask for the model name, the size in centimeters, and the year.

The cannage grid

Cannage is a diamond quilt. On an authentic bag the lines run straight from the body to the flap. The squares hold the same size across the whole surface. On a copy the grid tilts, or the squares narrow at the edge, or a seam cuts through the middle of a square. Count the squares across the front of a Lady Dior pouch. The count should match on the left and the right side.

Hardware

Dior uses brass with a gold-tone finish on most clutches. Palladium and silver-tone finishes appear on some models. Authentic hardware has weight. Letters sit flat. The D.I.O.R charms hang from separate rings, and each letter is a solid piece of metal, not a shell. Copies use hollow castings, and the charms rattle in the hand. Look at the point where the ring meets the leather. Dior sews a leather tab behind that point.

Interior stamp

The stamp reads "Christian Dior" in a serif font. Letters hold the same height. The "s" and the "r" carry matching curves. The stamp sits on a leather tag, or on the lining inside the flap. On copies the letters crowd, or the font shifts to a sans-serif, or the stamp is a printed label with a heat-press shine. Dior stamps are embossed, so the surface stays matte and the letters show depth.

Size and weight

A Lady Dior pouch measures about 22 by 12 cm. A Saddle clutch measures about 27 by 15 cm. Weigh the bag. Leather-lined clutches run heavy for their size. A copy made from bonded leather and a synthetic lining feels light and springs back when pressed. Press the flap with a thumb. Calfskin holds the dent and warms under the finger.

Paperwork

Dior ships a dust bag, a card, and a receipt from an authorized boutique. The card carries a number. Dior has used more than one format for the interior code over the years, so a code that looks odd may still be correct. Match the card number to the interior tag. Mismatched numbers are the most common error on resale listings. A seller with no receipt, no card, and a price far under retail is a seller to skip.

Price

Dior clutches retail from about $1,500 to $3,800, depending on the model and the season. Resale runs lower. A "new" clutch at $300 is not a bargain. It is a different product.